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S E P T E M B E R
 2 0 0 9Issue 32
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THE BOOK ON NICARAGUA
by Carter Clews “If they asked me, I could write a book About the way you walk and whisper and look …” Rogers and Hart If there is one, single question I get more than any other when folks find out that that I write about Latin American destinations, it is, “What about Nicaragua?” “You’re written about Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Colombia, and even Uruguay,” they say, “but nary a word about Nicaragua. So what’s the story?” Well, the truth is, the story is about as complex as any in Latin America. The prologue is a centuries-old saga of government betrayal. The twists and turns in the complex plot rarely seem to go the way well-wishers would want. And the denouement still remains sadly in doubt. Still, it’s the story of a remarkably resilient people who deserve far better than they have received. A people who have suffered the “slings and arrows of outraged fortune” with an inner peace and outer strength that serves as an enduring example to all who face the oft-unfair vicissitudes of life. The gentle manner of that good people, the very way they “walk and whisper and look” seems to defy the forces of nature itself. Who could forget the horror inflicted upon them by the earthquake of 1972 that all but leveled Managua, leaving 5,000 dead and tens of thousands homeless? Yet, even with international aid diverted into the bulging pockets of the rapacious Somoza, the victims rose from the ashes to bind their neighbors’ wounds and rebuild upon the rubble. Such is the courage and compassion of the Nicaraguan people. Later, blighted by the oppressive policies of a revolutionary government that promised to save, but chose to enslave, the resilient Nicaraguans stunned the world by throwing off the Sandinista yoke and establishing a democracy where none before had prevailed. They did so not with the bullet, but with the ballot, proving anew the inexorable mettle of their unconquerable souls.  Today, the people of Nicaragua, having graciously offered a second chance to an errant son, again suffer under a Sword of Damocles threatening their fledgling democracy. Daniel Ortega has imposed onerous controls most had hoped were consigned to the dustbin of Nicaraguan history. Just as the impeached Manuel Zelaya attempted unsuccessfully to do in Honduras, Ortega seems determined to impose a Chavez-style socialist government, perpetuating himself in power by gutting the country’s cherished term-limit laws. So why do I -- a destination writer much preferring the dreamlike ethers of the turquoise Caribbean to the nightmare world of hardball politics -- bring all of this unpleasantness to your attention? Because, despite it all, I want you to consider Nicaragua. I want you to know what you’re buying before you entertain a sale. And I want you to know the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth, so that your eyes are as open as your heart and mind. You see, I love Nicaragua. I love the land and its people. I love its rolling hills, majestic mountains, quaint towns, and breathtaking beaches. In my own heart, I want it to be all that it could – and should – be. I want it to be a place you feel comfortable – yes, even excited – about one day visiting and even living there, just as I would like to do. And the fact is: if Daniel Ortega leaves office in 2011, as the Constitution requires, Nicaragua may quickly become the best land buy in all of Central America. |
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But, before I tout its ample wares, first, I owed it to you to pierce the veil and show you the danger within. I have done so. You can now make a well-informed, dispassionate decision. So, now, let me show you why, despite all of that, Nicaragua may be a place where – “your faith triumphant o’er your fears – you may find the good life at a great price that you, as Clews’ Views readers desire and deserve.
 To do so, allow me to take you on a minds-eye journey to the little town of Masachapa (population approximately 5,000) located at the halfway point going north to south down Nicaragua’s beautiful Pacific Coast. My good friend Mike Cobb, the developer of the exquisite Gran Pacifica resort community just 10 miles from Masachapa, had this to say about the enchanting little town. “It is a quaint fishing village with a couple of restaurants that are on stilts over the water (at high tide) that serve the freshest fish, lobster, and shrimp you can get. If you look over the rail, you can even pick your fish.” In short, in Masachapa, you’ll eat well and see the world at its pristine best – all at a bargain price. A full meal at any one of Masachapa’s picturesque waterfront restaurants costs well under $10, including the main course, dessert, the beverage of your choice – and the town’s rightly renowned, delectable seafood soup. The service is always friendly and invariably prompt. The atmosphere entirely relaxed. In fact, the atmosphere throughout Masachapa is entirely relaxed. And that is part of its Caribbean charm. Masachapa, with its rugged shore and placid tidal pools is the kind of place where you can enjoy relaxing at a leisurely pace. I can’t put it any more succinctly than that. If your idea of a good time is curling up with a good book, lounging in the sun, and “telling the whole darn world if you don’t happen to like it, deal me out, thank you kindly, pass me by,” Masachapa may well have been made with you in mind. On the other hand, if you are into a little more excitement (though still at a decidedly Caribbean pace), you’ll be happy to know that coterminous with Masachapa – in fact, truth be known, largely indistinguishable from Masachapa – is the bustling, hustling town of Pochomil. Pochomil’s Centro Turistico houses a staggering 30 businesses, mostly waterfront restaurants and bars, all are featuring a wide variety of fresh seafood and homegrown vegetables. Almost all of the bars and restaurants have palapa (thatched) roofs; all front on the untrammeled, honey-sand beach. The food is inexpensive; the atmosphere is unrivaled for idling away the hours with nothing on your mind but living in the moment. But, don’t get too settled in. Because, when not dining out or lying about, you’ll want to take advantage of the world class surfing for which Nicaragua is increasingly famous. Since I am not a surfer myself (not now, not ever), I am simply going to quote directly from the Lonely Planet travel guide to give you some idea of what to expect when “surf’s up”: “There’s great surfing – a left point break just north of Montelimar [an adjacent town to Masachapa and Pochomil], and a hollow right reef break to the south; Quizala, a beach break, is closer to Masachapa. South to Pochomil there are scores of smallish, predictable peaks that would be perfect to learn on.” And here, to sum it all up, is a description that even a landlubber can’t help buy love from NicaraguaSurfMaps.com: “Masachapa itself has a great right hander which barrels nicely at times. Works best on low tides on the push and big south swells.” Well, cowabunga, dude! (Sorry, I just couldn’t help myself.) Seriously, if you are into surfing, swimming, catching fish, dining on the fish others catch, or simply enjoying a leisurely life under the sun with friendly people around the clock, I urge you to check out Masachapa. The area defines seaside serenity. And it has one other added attraction that could well make it a great investment as well. I alluded to it earlier. Masachapa is on what is fast becoming known as Nicaragua’s “Pacific Riviera.” This is the coastal stretch from Nicaragua’s northern border with Honduras to its southern border with Costa Rica that is fast becoming a sun-seeking water-lover’s year-round mecca. Already more than 20 exquisite resort developments have been, or are being, built along this golden corridor. And, few doubt that if freedom rings, it could one day be the most luxurious track of beachfront property in all of Central America. Mike Cobb’s Gran Pacific is among the exquisite developments along Nicaragua’s Pacific Riviera. In fact, many who have taken the north-to-south resort excursion consider it the set piece. I urge you to visit it – not because I have an ownership interest (I don’t), but because once you see it, you may choose to. In addition, it will give you a feel for the remarkable beauty of the entire Pacific coast – including Masachapa. Besides that, Mike Cobb is the kind of honest broker who will candidly answer your every question about Nicaragua and help you decide where and when to settle, if you should so decide. Gran Pacifica for its part is what I would call a perfectly planned New Urbanism community, with all of the modern amenities, views to die for, the rolling Pacific at the tips of your toes, and home prices so low you may be tempted to buy a baker’s dozen.  Well, maybe not that low, but how about complete home packages starting at just $99,000? How about oceanfront condos for under $135,000? And how about a full 1,700 square foot ocean view home and lot for under $200,000? In the U.S. a similar beach resort home could easily cost you four to five times that – and you still wouldn’t have all of the creature comforts. The first nine holes of Gran Pacifica’s championship golf course are complete and will open December 4, 2009. And the upscale town center will feature everything from brand name stores to boutique shops, from gourmet dining emporia to fast-food bistros. And here’s one other item I don’t want you to miss because it is of vital import to the type of middle to upper-middle income readers Clews’ Views is written for: the cost of living at Gran Pacifica – and, in fact, throughout much of Nicaragua, including Msaschapa/Pochomil – is under $1500 a month for a couple. And that includes a maid, golf, dining out – you name it, it’s yours. All for less than monthly rents in the U.S. So there you have it – if you want it. I’ve told you the story of Nicaragua, warts, beauty marks, and all. Would I invest? Yes, I would. In fact, I will. And then I’ll pray that the book on Nicaragua will have a fairy tale ending rightly befitting its enchanting people. See you next month! |
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AUTHOR : Carter L. Clews began his career in marketing as Director of Public Relations for the National Right to Work Committee in Washington, after which he became Director of Communications for the U.S. Senate Conference of the Majority. Following his years in Washington, Mr. Clews became Creative Director for Inphomation, Inc, the company responsible for several of the top infomercials in recent history, including Making Love Work, The Psychic Friends Network, and The Helicopter Lure. Mr. Clews has won numerous writing awards, including the Best Scriptwriter of the Year Award from the Electronic Retail Association. He now lives at Keyhole Bay on Roatan in the beautiful Bay Islands. |
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This beautiful 4800 sqft, 4 yr old, 2-story home, sits on 1.8 acres in the hills of Heredia with fantastic views of the Central Valley and mountains. 
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