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| | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 0 9 Issue 32 | An online magazine about investing, living, working and relocating to the Caribbean. | | | | | S P E C I A L F E A T U R E S | | A BUDGET TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO CENTRAL AMERICA, Part 2 of 3 by Anjali Wilde In part 1 we completed our account of budget travel through some Central America countries such as Belize, Costa Rica, Honduras and continue that account in part 2 as we journey through two more “ off the beaten track” type of destinations in Central America – Nicaragua and El Salvador. Nicaragua More than just a lake? Nicaragua gets more than its fair share of visitors compared with what it has to offer due to its proximity with Costa Rica. Towns like Granada which are quite pleasant, but nothing too special, are hives of activity, full of budget travelers. Granada for example picks up on the Central American trail where the Bay Islands in Honduras leaves off. Towns such as Granada and León are the main sights in Nicaragua along with several volcanoes that can be visited near-by. Again these volcanoes are interesting but not on the same level with those found elsewhere in the region. The lake (Lago de Nicaragua) is the other big draw card. Geographically and biologically speaking it and its contents are very interesting, but Ometepe (pictured), the largest and by far the most visited island, apart from being picture perfect will not hold your attention for very long. The lake can often get a little rough, but transport is easy, on the island itself mountain biking is the best way to enjoy your time, but more than often it is too hot for this. Other activities such as tours and volcano climbs aren't expensive, but not that great of a value. If you want to really see the island, public transport will be quite time consuming, so make sure you have a few days and a good book to really 'do' Ometepe (although if you only spend a day or two you are not missing out on too much). This route through Leon, Granada and Ometepe is by far the most popular and if transiting through, worth several short stops. Elsewhere there are of course many other destinations that due to their location and difficulty to reach are off the tourist trail. The Corn Islands for example. Sure get off the beaten track, but don't expect too much to reward you when you get there - not unless you are big into relaxing and are completely ignoring the much easier to reach and more impressive near-by attractions in Costa Rica and Honduras. Still the people are nice, the revolution is long over and if you're in the region like everywhere else: why not stop? Highlights: No real highlights apart from the fact you are abroad somewhere new travelling! The most interesting and attractive places to visit are León, Granada and Ometepe with perhaps a stop to see a volcano from the top (drive right there) on the way. Lowlights: Lack of anything to really impress, tourist trail and lack of accommodation that is really comfortable (not a complete hole which are available in plenty at bargain prices), but not over priced, Granada aside. PRICES ARE A LITTLE HIGH BY WORLD STANDARDS, BUT A BARGAIN IF COMING FROM COSTA RICA • Typical tourist trail: Overland from or to Honduras stopping at Leon, Granada and Ometepe. Many tourists bring hire cars from Costa Rica as far as Granada. | | | Keyhole Bay in Roatan includes single-family estate home sites and luxury condominiums in breathtaking hillside and seaside settings. The clubhouse is just steps away from your front door and offers a restaurant, bar, pool and meeting facilities, all of which overlook the beautiful Beach at Keyhole Bay, the heart of the community. Call it an “island paradise” … or a “sunlit Eden” … Call it “the most exclusive community – and best investment - in the beautiful Bay Islands … Or simply call it “Keyhole Bay”… But, best of all, for a fraction of what you’d expect to pay for such luxurious living in a tropical paradise, now you can call it “Home.” "Welcome to Keyhole Bay..." A unique opportunity to acquire some of the most exquisite oceanfront condominiums you can find anywhere … in this Bay Islands paradise – at the lowest pre-construction prices ever offered. The luxury condominiums – there will be only 45 in all – are the final stage of a private Caribbean community catering only to those who are accustomed to enjoying the finer things in life. | | | • Visa strategy: No visa required by most developed country nationals • Dangers: Less crime than Costa Rica and Honduras, but be sensible at night with your bag. • Hot/cold, wet and dry: As with the rest of the region be warned about travelling at the hottest time of year. It is still very possible, but heat is sometimes a little unbearable (especially at night) and AC rooms come at a price. • Costs: US$20-30 per day • Money: Corodoba can be taken from ATMs in Granada, Leon and Managua, but ATMs do need some hunting. USD cash changes easily and is worth taking. TCs can be changed in major cities and Amex cheques are by far the best. Most banks in Nicaragua don't have ATMs, these are found (normally only one/two in a town) in mini shopping centres or other modern complexes. If in doubt ask locals. In Nicaragua simply stock up on cash when you can. • Getting around: Buses run around the country particularly on the Western side which is the good pan-American highway. Elsewhere roads are bad. Along the pan-American highway collectivos run at lightning speed. These are mini-buses that leave when full. Rates are fixed and good value. • Guide book: Footprint or a regional guide, not necessary if on the beaten track. For a full list of regional guides please • People vibe: o Locals: Normal Central American folk, friendlier perhaps than in Costa Rica, those on the Caribbean coast as per normal in this region are friendlier. Some say the friendliest people are those on Ometepe since there was no fighting during the civil war here. o Other travelers: Standard gringos, many on side trips from Costa Rica rather than those travelling the whole region. • Tourist factor: Up to 8/10 • Accommodation: In large towns and on the tourist trail getting a room is never a problem and rooms can be found very cheaply, but basic. o Hot water: Pretty rare in budget hotels o Average cost: From US$5 for a very basic room, but bearable if in the cool season. To US$10-15 for an okay room to US$30 for a nice one. AC will cost more still. • Communications: Internet plentiful in major cities • Media: o Books: None, really o TV: Hotels aimed at backpackers often have cable TV in the reception • Food: Food is quite basic and limited in most places apart from those on the tourist trail where in many cases backpackers are well catered for. Prices are a little high by world standards, but a bargain if coming from Costa Rica. o Vegetarians: Fine • Hassle and annoyance factor: None really o Women alone: Generally fine Rating: 7.0/10 El Salvador Introduction: It might be the thoughts of earthquakes or perhaps the memory of civil war that keeps so many away from El Salvador in such a well travelled region, but it is more likely the fact that the attractions of neighboring countries - and the lack of anything truly comparable in El Salvador that prevents most from even passing through. Those who do are normally pleased they did, but would agree that any 'sight' is low key and as nice and friendly as the people are, they are also so in neighboring nations. o Highlights: (Interesting & nice but hardly a must sees) Suchitoto and Sonsonate. Lack of gringo crowds. Some great beaches. o Lowlights: USD economy, major cities and lack of anything really interesting or rural (country-side well cultivated) • Visa strategy: No visa required for most (Latin America, North American, European inc. Israel). Notably Australian, NZ and Canadian citizens will have to buy a tourist card on the border/airport for $10 or a visa for $30 in advance. • Typical tourist trail: Normally figures around coming from Guatemala and going to Copán (Honduras) via Suchitoto or transiting the country completely at it's length (this is normally done on an international bus. • Dangers: San Salvador is not the safest city in the region and care should be taken at night especially in the area where budget hotels are • Costs: US$20-40 per day • Money: Since 2001 the national currency has been phased out and is now rarely seen. US$ is the new currency easily pulled from ATMs in major cities, but outside of them make sure you have cash to hand. • Getting around: Old American school buses ply most routes. They are cheap, connections are easy and most roads are good (but not all) • Guide book: Any regional guide. • People vibe: o Locals: On the whole very nice, more so in areas less affected by the civil war o Other travelers: Few • Tourist factor: 3/10 • Accommodation: Good hotels normally available, but at a price. In cities nice budget rooms are tough to find and basic ones will cost between $15-$30. Outside of the cities you can find a nice room for about the same price. o Hot water: Only in nice hotels o Average cost: See above • Communications: Internet and phone easy to find in major towns and the capital. These are a world apart from the country-side where internet cafés are only just starting to pop up. • Media: o Books: Difficult to find, unless in Spanish o TV: Cable TV in capital plus large cinemas o Web: For an excellent site on this less visited, less know country try: http://www.4elsalvador.com • Food: Plentiful American fast food (in big cities), good eating on a budget is not too hard, but not that easy o Vegetarians: Fine • Hassle and annoyance factor: None o Women alone: No problem o Rating:5.5/10 Part 3 will conclude this series on budget traveling in Central America with an overview guide of Guatemala, one of the most beautiful countries in the world. | AUTHOR : Anjali Wilde was born in Africa, schooled in Europe and America, and spent her young adult years in the Caribbean. Married, she now divides her time between Mexico and Europe with her husband, Pier Paolo, a photographer and artist. Anjali, a working artist and poet, has recently taken up freelance writing. Her articles cover a broad range of subject matter including travel, art, tourism, history and culture. Email : Anjali Wilde | |
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