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A BUDGET TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO CENTRAL AMERICA
by Anjali Wilde


I was first introduced to Central America and its wealth of pristine beauty after leaving grad school. At that point the need for a getaway and fresh exploration was at the top of my list. Also, I was mulling over the idea of joining the UN or Peace Corps as a volunteer, and so wanted more of a true perspective to living, working, and being in Central America and Mexico.

My fascination with all things Spanish (language, gorgeous men, and otherwise) began early in life, accelerated through my teen years and eventually led me to select the somewhat unexplored countries of Central America, along with Mexico, for my one year low budget travel journey and adventure.  This article provides a short and subjective overview (including my rankings) for anyone considering the same type of journey, and especially for the single female.
A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
I traveled throughout six of the seven countries of Central America until I ran out of money – which means I never made it to Panama!  And this once in a lifetime adventure actually turned in to a repeat journey, when a few years back I somehow convinced my sister and husband to repeat this tour once again.  

I rank the nations based on these two tours and including the opinions of my husband and sister, who are both knowledgeable travelers. Part one of the two part series introduces our overview and opinions about Belize, Costa Rica, and Honduras, and part two overviews Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua.  To begin with, Central America is a relatively compact region, easily travelled and very popular.

Travelers are attracted to Caribbean beaches, Mayan temples and it's 'easy access' proximity to the United States of America. On the whole the region is bit overrated when compared to Mexico. It's an excellent place to learn Spanish and I highly recommend learning Spanish throughout your trip by staying at lost cost accommodations also offering Spanish language immersion classes. There are several in each country, and all are fairly low priced.

When compared to South America, Central America is a better destination in many ways, mainly due to beaches and beauty within a compact circuit, but it does lack many of the 'wow' exotic factors and sights of South America which should not be missed. But that is for another article!

BELIZE

Relatively small, nestled in between México and Guatemala, Belize is the only English speaking Latin American country. It is fairly developed in relation to its neighbors, but in many places it has a very backwater feel to it. I’ve always considered it to be a bit ‘off the grid’ myself, but that is part of its charm to me.

Most of the main attractions involve the sea and include the form of hundreds of Cayes, many with beautiful beaches and the 184-mile long (longest in the Northern hemisphere) barrier reef, complete with whale sharks, sting rays, multi-colored fish and clear blue water.

On the whole the Belize mainland is pretty much ignored, with the main focus of activities away from the beaches, being wildlife viewing or Mayan temples that are a little less grand than might be found in neighboring nations, where the tourists numbers at the sites are a lot lower. That does not mean the main-land is totally ignored, however.


THE WHOLE CARIBBEAN ATMOSPHERE OF THE PLACE…SPOKEN ENGLISH..AND THE VERY DOWN TO EARTH, FRIENDLY PEOPLE MAKES BELIZE A GREAT PLACE


San Ignacio is a beehive of travelers (although this does have something to do with its position on route to Tikal) and is a fantastic place. Elsewhere inland towns are less frequently visited and provide a great opportunity to get a little away from the Central American crowds and chill a little. The down-side however is that costs are much higher here than elsewhere in the region and considering this, most travelers stay less than a week.
A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
The whole Caribbean atmosphere of the place, including the 'Bob Marley' variety of spoken English and its very down to earth, friendly people makes Belize a great place when you are there - less so when you are counting the cost for excursions. Believe me; your time on the Cayes comes at a price.

What to take: The Cayes are covered in a white dirt that may or may not be sand, however when the sun reflects on it, sun glasses are necessary for comfort. As mentioned before sun protection is important when on boats, snorkeling etc.

Getting around: Old American school buses ply routes. These are fairly frequent and cheap if a little over crowded. There are also some express buses, but distances are not too far. To get the Cayes  you will find speed boat services (water-taxi) through-out the day. Prices are not cheap, but not unreasonable.

Guide book: Both the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide are popular and good. The Rough Guide covers Tikal and the Bay Islands so it may have the edge.

People: The locals on the whole welcoming and friendly. Other travelers are your normal crowd of Europeans, Americans and Canadians.

Highlights: The Cayes, diving is incredible, snorkeling, the reef – it is fabulous, the desert islands, sharks, sting rays, San Ignacio …these are all highlights. One of my favorites is the caves and cave tours as well. Although the ruins are a bit ruined in some spots, they are still wonderful for the first time visitor to visit.

Lowlights: San Pedro and Ambergris Caye, Belize City, some tour prices and especially those of excursions. Many towns like Belmopan (the capital), pleasant as they are, are non-events unfortunately.
A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
Visa Tips: US, Canadian, Australian, and EU passport holders do not need a visa.

Typical tourist trail: From México to Guatemala (or visa-versa) via Belize City to Caye Caulker to San Ignacio

The Cayes: Small islands.

There are hundreds of these off Belize, many of them picture perfect and uninhabited. When backpackers talk about the Cayes they generally mean Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker as the two main Cayes. Ambergris Caye is far 'richer' and a package tourist favorite, whereas Caye Caulker is smaller and is more backpacker orientated.

Dangers: Belize City seems to get a bad rap, but with normal care, it is no real threat. Most trips and transport use boats where the sun can be very dangerous – some very good water-proof block will make your life much easier. Sand flies and big black flies can also be a major annoyance on the Cayes, depending on the time of year.

Costs: Including a few trips, but not diving you can easily spend US$50-70 per day or more, even if staying in cheap rooms. This cost is normally reflected in eating out and boat trips,  not transport on-land using public buses.

Money: A US $ is worth twice that of a Belize $. This is a fixed rate and because of this simple and consistent exchange rate, U.S. dollars are widely accepted, but this means you should be careful to clarify which "dollars" you're talking about when negotiating prices. International ATMs are found around the country but mainly in Belize City. For this reason USD cash, a stock of ATM cash from Belize City and backup travelers checks are always a good idea.

Communications: Phone and internet are no problem 
 
Accommodation: All levels of accommodation. However, cheap accommodation is never that cheap and normally of a low standard.

Hot water: Don't expect hot water unless you are paying extra for a private bathroom
Average daily cost: Between US$30 and US$50 depending on where you are. A little less if really off the beaten track.

Language: If English is not your first language then you may find the Belizean pronunciation a little hard to understand. Spanish is widely used around border areas.

Weather: Can be hot, cold, windy, wet or dry! The highland areas are beautifully cool. Hey, this is the tropics after all.

Books: Some second hand book stalls, nothing too stimulating. Newsweek and Time can be found in Belize City

TV: No problem. Its most everywhere and especially at the bars and hotels will that carry American cable TV

Food: Great food, although the cost of eating out will add up. It is easy to eat out and comparably speaking the prices are really good. Supermarkets are  well stocked and prices are the pretty good.

Vegetarians: You’ll get along just great here. Especially if you will eat lots of the fine fresh fish that is available.

Hassle Factor: None – something I love.

Women alone: Women will get some attention, even in pairs, but on the whole it is harmless. If you are looking for romance, the men of Belize will certainly accommodate you!

Tourist factor: 8/10
A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
Drugs/alcohol : Belize is pretty famous for its herb and it is widely available. Since most travelers hit the Cayes, it is here where you are most likely to be offered it. Given that (for example) Caye Caulker is so small with a police station right in the middle, risks seem high especially if buying off the street.

Despite the numbers of Rastas, pot is illegal and can land you in the sort of trouble that you should look to avoid.

Rating: 9.0/10 (What can I say, I’m a sucker for eco experiences and fabulous nature spots!)


COSTA RICA GETS A LOT OF ATTENTION AS A TRAVEL AND TOURISM DESTINATION…

COSTA RICA

Costa Rica gets a lot of attention as a travel and tourist destination, after all its name translates to rich coast, but more often than not it is over hyped and as a country, somewhat overrated. It is not that it is uninteresting or unworthy of a visit it is just:

a) over-crowded
b) comparatively pricey
c) has similar activities and sites can be found all over the region and indeed world.

Costa Rica's ignoble position stems from several sources. For one, being a democracy and thus peaceful and calm, coupled with large amounts of tourism dollars to market it guarantees it receives huge numbers of visitors, generally from North America – especially those who might consider anywhere else in the region as 'too dangerous.'

These large numbers of wealthy tourists have the knock on effect of inflating prices and tourist targeted crime. Another factor is the trump card played by tourist boards pushing the national parks and wildlife which also appeals to many traveler’s sense of wanting to view wildlife.

As it turns out, in Costa Rica just like anywhere else, the only place to see large amounts of guaranteed wildlife is in the zoo and as beautiful and interesting as national parks are - with the exception of monkeys - if you go with high hopes of seeing loads of wildlife you will be sorely disappointed. Remember the focus is very much on flora rather than fauna.

With all that cleared up, let’s look at why Costa Rica is so popular and the good reasons why. On the whole, the country is spectacularly beautiful with easy access to both coasts (unusual in Central America). In many places it is easy to have a good time if partying is your style and you don't mind too many gringos.

Although prices are higher than in the rest of the region they are still okay and quality does raise with prices. Accommodations are expensive in comparison, but there are lots of supermarkets so eating costs can be reduced.
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However, the tours are what really cost, and some you can hardly avoid if you want to see the best of what is on offer. Still the demand for them means if you have the money to spend there is a beehive of activities (still reasonably priced) you can take part in, such as white water-rafting. Along with two coasts Costa Rica also has cool mountains and the chance for some good trekking.

25% of Costa Rica is national parks…and by comparison Belize's ratio is 35%. Costa Rica does have most things, but not everything as so often claimed.

Highlights: Volcán Arenal, if it is in an animated active state (you have to take pot luck here), the beautiful cool highland areas around La Fortuna and Monteverde (although the jury is still out on the cloud forest), Montezuma and the Nicoya peninsula, Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast and the trek to Chirripo Grande.

Lowlights: Petty crime, the cost of tours and the number of tourists. In the most 'gringo-infected' area, which is the northwest (Province Guanacaste), there is more tourist-related thievery. In Costa Rica, with the exception of the public buses and the great Centenario rum, everything is more expensive relative to the rest of Central America. Almost twice as much as Guatemala and even more in relation to Nicaragua.

Visa Tips: Almost no one needs a visa, and you can stay for 90 days if from a more developed nation. However be sure to check ahead of time as for instance, Kiwi’s (New Zealanders) only get a 30 day stay.

Typical tourist trail: With many points of interest there is no trail as such, but most independent travelers take in San Jose, Jaco, Montezuma, Fortuna, Monteverde and maybe the Caribbean coast.

Getting around: Public transport is easy to use and a good standard. In more remote areas transport is normally limited to a few buses a day, making connections hard to meet. Many wealthier visitors hire 4x4 jeeps for their trip. This is a fantastic option, but just out of the price range of most budget travelers.

Guide book: Lonely Planet,  Footprint or Rough Guide.

Dangers/Crime: Like in most touristy Latin American nations, petty crime targeted at tourists is high in Costa Rica. The developed feel of Costa Rica does seem to give many a false sense of security. Don't let it. Now this does not mean there is more crime in Costa Rica than the aforementioned places, it probably means that there are more easily targeted tourists in Costa Rica. Luckily hardly any of these crimes are violent.
A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
Nevertheless if you have all your stuff stolen this doesn't make everything alright.

On public transport keep any bags you have with you very close to hand if under your seat or above you chain then up.

It doesn't matter if no one else is doing it. Everyday travelers get off buses - which are frequented by professional thieves and stop everywhere - without their bags. Don't let anything distract you and keep everything together. Keep important documents on you in a money belt.

Weather: Yes, it can be hot, wet, windy, dry and in some spots, cold. Climate and humidity vary dramatically across the country. December to February which is the best time to visit is also the most crowded. Outside of these months heavy rain falls are sporadic depending on location and exact time of year. Just remember at least some rain is likely during your trip and for that reason at least an umbrella is a good idea.

Costs: US$30 and up a day for most travel excluding tours and activities. To give you an example of how the cost of these can add up: the short trip to see the Volcano from La Fortuna - at least US$30 (including hot springs), the 30km (Taxi Boat Taxi) short cut ride from Fortuna to Monteverde (saves you a day compared to on public transport) again at least US$30.

At Monteverde canopy walks US$25, high wire rides much, much more. Add rafting to this and activity costs go sky high. There is a feeling in Costa Rica that with so many North American visitors on two week trips splashing money around, tour costs are just a reflection of what the market can stand and not good value.

Money: ATMs in most towns, even smaller ones. TCs and USD easy to change. Credit cards can be used in some circumstances and are worth having.

Tourist factor: 8/10

Accommodations: Among more expensive options catering to tourists, guesthouses and cheap hotels are plentiful. The price of these averages about US$25. In the high season many of the better rooms, especially in smaller places like Montezuma fill up quickly. In the capital there are many hostels, which charge about US$25-35 for a basic double room (no bathroom) and have many dorms (per-person from about US$10) cheaper.

These hostels generally have TV rooms, kitchens, sometimes free internet or breakfast, are always crowded and noisy with either music, drunkenness or backpackers sitting and having the same conversations late into every night. Some people love this, others hate it. And finally on the Caribbean coast, try beach huts and cheaper still, hammocks. These range from $10-15.

People vibe:  The locals are fine, but quite varied from coast to coast. Tourists – there is a huge variety, as Costa Rica draws tourists from all over the world, but mainly from America and Canada.

Communications: Internet and phone widely available and excellent value of excellent quality in the capital.

Language: English is widely spoken by those who work in the tourist trade and on the Caribbean coast.

Books: Very good selection of first and second hand books in the capital and other major tourist haunts. Newsweek and Time are easy to find as are guidebooks

TV: Plentiful everywhere. Hostels and better hotels will have American cable TV, cinemas are numerous in big cities

Food: Many restaurants to cater for visitors, the meal of the day (casado) is a normally excellent value as are the cheaper restaurants (sodas) they are often found in. Be warned better restaurants seem to slap as much as 25% onto bills. At the other end of the scale commonly found bakeries and supermarkets make basic self-catering a perfect money saving option.

Tourist factor: 8/10
Vegetarians: Fine
Hassle Factor: Limited, more on the Caribbean coast
Women Alone: Generally fine

Drugs/alcohol: Pot is easily found all over Costa Rica, but best on the Caribbean coast in small backpacker resorts such as Puerto Viejo.

Rating:7.5/10

 
HONDURAS…THE BLUE WATERS OF THE CARIBBEAN..THIS IS A VERY WELL TRAVELED REGION, SO YOU ARE NEVER REALLY OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

HONDURAS

Honduras has two main focuses with most travelers failing to explore little else. The first is Copán, one of the largest Mayan sites in the region. Copán is an easy side trip from Guatemala and sits just over the border, helping to explaining its popularity.

The second focus is the Bay Islands which are touted as budget Caribbean and rightly so with beaches, tropical islands, widely-spoken English and inexpensive wonderful diving. This also helps to make these islands one of the world's most popular backpacker hubs.

As for the rest of Honduras it does hold a few surprises and beautiful (sometimes difficult) routes through hilly countryside. Gracias for example is a pretty colonial town with many trekking options surrounding it, not to mention a beautiful alternative route to the capital.

So most go head straight for the blue waters of the Caribbean, but remember that this is a very well travelled region so you are never really off the beaten track, nevertheless the hillside paths of Honduras are interesting and a good chance to find some space to yourself.

Highlights: Copán, the Bay islands (especially the diving and the chance to see Whale sharks), Gracias and trying to get off the beaten track a little. The Parque National La Tigra often comes highly rated and is a good way to see a cloud forest without the crowds or expense of Costa Rica.

Lowlights: The capital and major cities, plus the occasional crowds, sand flies and mosquitoes in different area.

Visa Tips: Nationals of almost all developed countries do not require a visa.

Typical tourist trail: From Guatemala to Copán to San Pedro Sula (overnight stop) then on to a Bay Islands (Roatán being the most popular, second to Utila). Many will then transit through Tegucigalpa, the capital.

A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
Money: ATM's in major towns including Copán and on Roatán. Stock up where you can or take TCs and/or cash. Not all banks will take TCs.

Getting around: Chicken buses (old American school buses) ply most routes, along with more standard looking buses often called express because they're not suppose to stop so much, but they still do. On major routes such as between San Pedro Sula and Tegucigalpa you can find nice, genuine express, AC buses although they are more expensive.

The road system in Honduras is in fact probably the best in Central America. However, head into the hills and roads soon deteriorate and become very windy. You will of course need to take to the water to get out to the Islands. To major islands this is not a problem, but internal flights to and from the islands which can often take you as far inland as Tegucigalpa or San Pedro Sula are good value and save lots of time.

Guide book: Multi-regional guide.

Reading: A must is The Mosquito Coast, set mainly in Honduras. The story tells us chronicles the "adventure" of a family whose father takes them all to live in the Honduran jungle. This is a stunning book and a great read. The story is fantastic; a mixture of sarcastic humor, adventure and emotion.

A Budget Traveler’s Guide to Central America
Dangers/Crime: Parts of Tegucigalpa can be bad for theft. Mosquitoes and sand flies can be an annoyance on the Caribbean coast. Walking off into the countryside around Copán is not advised.

Costs: US$20-40 per day, a little more on the Bay Islands

People vibe: The locals are fine. Other travelers tend to be budget travelers from all over the world: as always many northern Europeans and North Americans. The Bay Islands have even more North Americans.

Tourist factor: 8/10

Accommodations: There is a wide range of accommodation. You can normally fine a nice room for US$15-20. Nice rooms at the cheaper end are difficult to find in big cities.

Communications: Internet easy and plentiful in major cities and Copán. On the Bay Islands internet is available.

Books: Basic English language book shops in Tegucigalpa and book exchanges on major islands

TV: Most good hotels have American cable TV and so do some of the cheaper ones

Tourist factor: 8/10

Food: Fine, more expensive on Bay Islands. Major cities are over run with American fast food restaurants.

Vegetarians: Fine
Hassle Factor: None really
Women alone: No real problem

Drugs/alcohol: Alcohol is more pricey on the islands as other things are. Weed can of course be found on the Caribbean coast and larger islands.

Rating: 8/10

The next part of this series will cover El Salvador, Guatemala and Nicaragua.


AUTHOR : Anjali Wilde was born in Africa, schooled in Europe and America, and spent her young adult years in the Caribbean. Married, she now divides her time between Mexico and Europe with her husband, Pier Paolo, a photographer and artist. Anjali, a working artist and poet, has recently taken up freelance writing. Her articles cover a broad range of subject matter including travel, art, tourism, history and culture.

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Anjali Wilde
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Last Updated On : 01 Sep 2010