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BELIZE : MOTHER NATURE’S BEST KEPT SECRET, Pt. 2
by Philip Hahn

In this second installment of a three part series I’ll introduce you to the fabulous “4R’s” of Belize - Reefs, Ruins, Rainforests and Rivers. In the previous installment I wrote about the peaceful diversity of the people. This same peaceful diversity exists in the environment where modern-day pioneers and entrepreneurs make their homes, businesses and playgrounds.

Belize has two Blue Holes. The most famous one is at Lighthouse Reef, part of the Belize Barrier Reef and location of Jacques Cousteau’s famous documentary in the late 1960’s. The other is a cenote (a sacred natural well) deep in the rainforest of the Maya Mountains. Legend has it that the two are connected by a deep underground cavern.

Many myths and legends persist from the Maya and other early settlers of Belize. Explorers, scientists and archaeologists have been working to uncover these mysteries for hundreds of years. In the meantime, the rich natural environment, history and culture have inspired many to make Belize their home.

One of those entrepreneurs is my friend Dan Silva. I’m writing this article as I sit poolside at his hotel, Cahal Pech Village Resort. We just returned from one of Dan’s favorite places, Carmelita. It’s a farm that his family has owned for generations. It sits right at the edge of the rainforest.

“DAD, THIS IS BETTER THAN DISNEY WORLD!”

My nine year old daughter and I took the opportunity to go for a late afternoon horseback ride in the rainforest and watched the sunset as we headed back to the farm. She has always had a way with words and when we were riding under a canopy of tropical palms and majestic hardwoods she said, “Dad, this is better than Disney World!”

She’s following in the footsteps of her older brother and sister who have exclaimed the very same words while climbing through Maya ruins, snorkeling on the reef, or paddling a canoe down a river. And as my wife says, “You don’t have to be a kid to explore like one in Belize.” My family’s not alone in their love for this natural playground as countless visitors are discovering the joy of genuine eco-tourism and incredible natural beauty.

Along with these wonderful adventures, the “4R’s” of Belize are home to a myriad of animals, vast oxygen producing flora and uncommonly known medicinal plants. Nearly half of Belize is in protected reserves allowing many threatened species to live in healthy populations. With this in mind the Belize government, along with the Belize Audubon Society, are cautious about over development and favor resorts, communities and businesses that share their respect for the environment.

Belize has been a popular destination for scuba diving enthusiasts since Cousteau’s documentary. In fact, until about five to ten years ago, unless you were a scuba diver or talking to one it was unlikely that you would have even heard about Belize. It’s no wonder that the majority of resorts are located near the reef. Until recently, these resorts, understandably, catered to divers.
As the word got out about Belize and cruise ships began arriving in the 1990’s, a whole new tourism and real estate market emerged.

This trend continues and each of the six districts in the country have accommodations for visitors and communities for those that want to live full or part-time in Belize.

The Reef

Like a strand of emeralds, the Belize Barrier Reef stretches along the entire 175 mile coastline of Belize. It is the largest reef in the Western Hemisphere and second largest in the world. The world’s largest reef is, of course, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef; however, since parts of Australia’s reef are dead, Belize’s reef is now the largest living reef in the world. It has been designated as a World Heritage Site and vast areas have been set aside as marine reserves and sanctuaries. There are only four coral atolls in the Western Hemisphere and Belize is home to three of them.

The most popular destination is San Pedro on the island of Ambergris Caye. In her song, “La Isla Bonita” (The Beautiful Island), Madonna sang lovingly about this little slice of paradise. This notoriety along with other television coverage has brought an increase in tourism and real estate development and now there are numerous resorts and condominiums on the island. This, of course, is a two edged sword. I frequently say that most travelers and ex-pats like to get away, just not too far away. Ambergris Caye certainly has the amenities and conveniences tourists expect, however, the once quiet town of San Pedro has been largely taken over by the tourism industry.

To the south of Ambergris Caye is the island of Caye Caulker which, according to the locals, is what San Pedro was like prior to the 1990’s when cruise ships began bringing in over 800,000 passengers every year. Caye Caulker is a “barefoot” island where the few streets that exist are sand and the mode of transportation is bicycles, golf carts or bare feet. It is actually two islands, years ago a hurricane created “The Split”, a channel that separates the north and south of the island.

The southern end is where you’ll find the community of multi-generation Belizeans, eccentric ex-pats and laid-back visitors. It’s easy to get to since there are regular flights and water taxis to the island. Of course, this means the impact from tourism is becoming more and more evident.

As the chain of islands continues to the south you’ll find hundreds of islands along the reef; but aside from Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker most of them are sparsely populated and only accessible by boat. The accommodations are typically geared towards excursions or short stays. Many of the resorts offer all-inclusive vacation packages and run the gamut from modest to luxurious.
On St. George’s Caye you’ll find St. Georgre’s Caye Resort which is only a couple of miles from Belize City and is historically significant as the site where on September 10, 1798 (celebrated annually as a National Holiday) Belizean and British naval forces, once and for all, defended The Belize Settlement from Spanish attacks.

Other destinations on the reef include Blackbird Caye on the Turneffe Atoll, Lighthouse Reef (the site of the famous Blue Hole) and Long Caye on Glover’s Reef. There are also resorts on the mainland that provide excursions to islands and the reef. For example, in Placencia, Robert’s Grove is a luxury resort that owns its own private island.

If you’re looking for that island you see on your screen saver you’ll find several of them in Belize and the boat ride to them is well worth the trip.

Maya Ruins

You can still find quaint Mayan villages in the mountains and rainforests of Belize. The ancestors of the Maya built several magnificent cities, towns and villages, many of which are still waiting to be uncovered. At the height of their ancient civilization the population was over one million, which stands in stark contrast to today’s 311,500 Belizeans. Home to a greater concentration of archaeological sites than anywhere else in the Mundo Maya (Mayan World), Belize continues to attract people looking for the same fertile land, freshwater and abundant marine life that sustained the Maya for centuries.

For residents and visitors alike the history of this once great civilization is mysterious and awe inspiring. As the end of the Mayan calendar approaches (September 21, 2012) numerous scholars and curiosity seekers are coming to Belize to learn more about this enigmatic culture. It is an attractive destination since there are so many options. There are sites that you can drive right up to, ones that you swim to and others that require a hike or a boat ride. Whether you want to enjoy a leisurely slow-paced tour or explore like Indiana Jones, there are several options to choose from.

Cerros Maya sits prominently on the shores of Chetumal Bay and is a rare example of an ancient coastal city. One of the most spectacular adventures in Belize is the tour to Lamanai which includes a riverboat ride on the New River amidst colorful birds, swinging monkeys and lush jungle. You’ll never think of a trip to the “ATM” in the same way after you visit Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM). The journey to this Belizean “ATM” requires special permission from the Institute of Archaeology, a two mile hike with three creek crossings and a swim into the mouth of the cave which leads to the Mayan underworld.

There are also many archaeological sites on private property. The Director of Archaeology, Dr. Jaime Awe, has worked hard to educate individuals, hoteliers and developers on the value of these national treasures. There are several examples of how this public/private sector cooperation has worked in Belize. For instance, the owner of Cahal Pech Village Resort helped establish a museum and preserved the Cahal Pech archaeological site which sits within 100 feet of his hotel. Other resorts (Chaa Creek and Chan Chich) and developments (Orchid Bay and Carmelita) have incorporated Maya sites into their land plans and business plans.

BELIZE…AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE, OR AS THE BTB CALLS THIS EXTRAORDINARY COUNTRY - “MOTHER NATURE’S BEST KEPT SECRET.”

No matter where you go in Belize, there is a Maya city or sacred cave nearby. Each site is unique and will provide an unforgettable experience. And, that is the best way to describe Belize…an unforgettable experience, or as the Belize Tourism Board (BTB) calls this extraordinary country - “Mother Nature’s Best Kept Secret.”

Rainforests

Everybody has a green thumb in Belize. The tropical weather, varied topography and soil variety creates an ideal climate for plant life. The vast Belizean forests are the best evidence of this fertility. Natural vegetation covers almost 75% of Belize with nearly half of the country protected in forest reserves, parks or wildlife sanctuaries. This ecology, along with a very small population, makes Belize one of the most unique environments in the world. It is unusual to find so much diversity of flora and fauna in such a small country.

The forest represents many things in Belize. From the ancient Maya to modern eco-tourism the jungle is an inextricable part of every Belizean’s life. The nation’s flag is embellished with a coat of arms depicting a mahogany tree and two woodcutters. Below them it reads, “Sub Umbra Floreo” which means “Under the Shade We Flourish.” The images on the flag depict the past, present and future of the country.

The woodcutters clearly represent the country’s British Colonial past which included providing mahogany for Buckingham Palace. The mahogany tree can easily be seen as the robust forests of modern-day Belize. Sub Umbra Floreo is the perfect vision for the future as eco-tourism and conservation flourish under the shade of the magnificent rainforest.

Belizeans and ex-pats have embraced this vision of the future and have established numerous organizations and businesses that are focused on the rainforest. One of the best examples of this commitment is the Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center which was established in 1983. The zoo is now home to over 125 animals that were orphaned, rehabilitated or born at the zoo.

The Belize Botanic Gardens (BBG) in San Ignacio is another opportunity to see native species from the rainforest. As a member of Botanic Gardens Conservation International, the BBG promotes education and preservation of Caribbean flora. Attractions include the Native Orchid House, The Plants of the Maya and a two mile nature trail.

Spending a little time getting to know the native flora and fauna will add immensely to your time in Belize. Venturing to resorts and communities in the rainforest has become one of the country’s biggest attractions. An increasing number of people are recognizing the value of clean air, clean water, medicinal plants and organic foods. Some come for a short visit to rejuvenate and others for a lifetime.

Several hotels, inns and spas provide unique jungle settings with a wide range of accoutrements. Some resorts are rustic and the owners take great pride in treading lightly on the environment and providing one-of-a-kind adventures for their guests. Ian Anderson’s Cave’s Branch Adventure Co. & Jungle Lodge is highly regarded and is one of the best examples of this approach to eco-tourism.

Other resorts offer elegant accommodations and refined service with the forest as a backdrop. For instance, in the 1980’s Francis Ford Coppola fell in love with Belize and purchased Blancaneux Lodge which he maintained as a retreat for family and friends until opening it to the public in 1993. Located deep in the Maya Mountains next to the waterfalls of the Privassion River the peaceful setting is truly magical.

The conservation ethic in Belize has now extended to new developments. The old approach to development that has devastated vast areas of Florida, Mexico and Central America has not proliferated in Belize. The Government of Belize and the Belize Audubon Society have worked hard to balance the demand for economic development and the need for environmental protection. In order to strike that balance the developers must be committed and creative.

In northern Belize the community of Orchid Bay has been carefully planned to blend into the landscape. The new town was designed to incorporate the history, culture and environment of Belize.

Inspired by the countries national reserves and parks, Orchid Bay has set aside nearly half of its land as green space. This provides a classical complement between the environment and the architecture which references the Mayan, Spanish Colonial and British Colonial history of Belize.

As an international development consultant, I have the opportunity to visit and be involved in many different projects. Currently I am working on the new community of Carmelita in western Belize. The property is approximately 400 acres and half of it is rainforest. This is the place my daughter said was “better than Disney World.” The magnificent rainforest habitat and over a mile of Belize River frontage provide the opportunity to create a truly unique destination.

The owner is a native Belizean who has insisted on developing a community that provides homes and jobs while protecting the environment. He understands that it is important on a global level and as a good neighbor. He has a real diverse set of neighbors around Carmelita. There are the friendly Belizean villagers of Santa Familia, the Mennonite farmers of Spanish Lookout, the Howler Monkeys in the forest and several laid-back expats.

Rivers

Mankind has always been in search of arable land. The New World was colonized by Europeans looking for gold. Today we are scouring the planet for oil. However, the one resource we all need is fresh water. Belize is blessed with an abundance of flowing rivers, expansive lagoons and crystal clear springs.

This vast network has always been the countries lifeblood. It provides the nutrients for the reef, rainforest and all its inhabitants. The rivers were once the highways for the Maya and the colonial-era loggers. The lagoons supported ancient Maya cities and early settlements. The springs were sacred sites with mythical healing powers. Belize has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to sweet water. The reef and rainforest continue to thrive; however, man is now using this resource for hydroelectric power and recreation.

Belize has avoided the mass industrialization and overpopulation that drastically degrades the quality of aquifers and riverine environments. The trend towards eco-tourism and sustainable development gives this tiny nation the opportunity to maintain a healthy ecosystem and quality of life. Over 60% of the world’s population live in coastal areas and by 2025 that number is expected to be 75%. As humans we are naturally drawn to the water’s edge.

IN BELIZE, 100% OF THE PEOPLE LIVE WITHIN A FEW MILES OF A RIVER OR LAGOON.

Visitors and residents of Belize are no different. Almost all of the places that I’ve mentioned in this article are on or near a body of water. In the United States 53% of the people live within 50 miles of the coast. In Belize 100% of the people live within a few miles of a river or lagoon. Since this is where people want to be it is understandable that this is where many of the resorts and communities are located.

Aside from Ian Anderson’s, Blancaneaux and Carmelita there are several other noteworthy destinations. One of the most popular excursions is to Jaguar Paw where knowledgeable tour guides take visitors cave tubing down the Cave’s Branch River and into the Crystal Caves.

Thrill seekers can also go on a zip line tour in the jungle canopy. Another favorite is Banana Bank Lodge on the Belize River. The owner is an expat from Montana and has operated this great example of an eco-tourism business since 1973. He has an equestrian center and offers one of the country’s most renowned horseback rides through the rainforest. An unexpected treat is the artwork by his talented wife.

No article about the rivers in Belize would be complete without mentioning La Ruta Maya River Challenge. It is a canoe race named for the “Route of the Maya.” The Belize River becomes the countries center of attention every March as teams compete in a four day 170 mile race from San Ignacio to Belize City.

Other than during La Ruta Maya the rivers are no longer highways. Instead they are serene environments for bird watching, wildlife photography, peaceful canoe rides, or just frolicking on a tropical afternoon.

The 4R’s of Belize are unquestionably better than Disney World. The places and activities I’ve mentioned in this article is a short list from all of the life changing experiences that await your arrival in Belize.  In the next installment, I’ll introduce you to some of the Belizeans and expats who live an enjoyable tropical lifestyle in “Mother Nature’s Best Kept Secret.”

Author : Philip Hahn is the co-founder and Chief Vision Officer for Great Land Holdings. Phil identified the original opportunities in Belize and is responsible for architecture, strategic direction and sales. Phil has been designing homes in Florida and throughout the Southeastern U.S. for over twenty years and is certified by the Institute of Classical Architecture. Combining his love for architecture, planning and education, Phil has served on government advisory councils as well as several association and college boards. After several years of working with land planners and developers, Phil expanded his design business to include building and land development in Florida. In 2003, foreseeing a decline in the Florida real estate market, Phil further expanded off-shore into Belize. Phil's more than twenty years in the Florida real estate industry provides Great Land Holdings with an experienced eye for opportunity and direction. Phil has a Bachelor of Science from Florida State University.

The website for Orchid Bay.