Dominica : Wild Adventures on the Nature Island

Getting there was no picnic. And an unprecedented gasoline shortage on the island troubled us for a few days, more in mind than actual fact, but a few logistical flies in the ointment were the only flies we encountered. And they were nothing compared to the wonder, adventure and fun of that trip to Dominica. My first.

As a working father of two young teenagers, my travel the past 10 years had been mostly repeated trips to a relatively few destinations in the States. ‘Relatively’ being the operative word there: visiting my kids’ grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. I would generally prefer an adventure to a new place. So when a great friend and mentor encouraged me to join him for a week or two of hiking on Dominica that February, I jumped at the chance.

My friend, Carl Cohen, published here recently, has been a world traveler during the 53 years that I’ve known him, and he is particularly fond of islands. Islands in the Caribbean of course, but not only there, all over the globe: near Greece, Great Britain, New Zealand, Estonia, or closer to home in Lake Superior, the Canadian Bay of Fundy… You name it, he knows it. Is Dominica his favorite? As a matter of fact, Yes. It is!

As Carl wrote, “Dominica is geographically the roughest and toughest of all the islands of the Caribbean. Some of the hikes are very demanding. So, as in your fifth-grade text book, when the moisture-laden clouds hit the mountains and are driven higher by the trade winds they cannot hold their water, and they drop it…by the bucket, it rains. It rains a great deal! We are almost sure to get rained on during some walks -- but so what? The clouds pass, the sun comes out, and all is benign.

And, the island is green, green, GREEN, as lush and fruitful as you can possibly imagine. And there are beautiful rivers (not deep but swift and clear) - in some of which we will walk or crawl. And river pools for swimming, and waterfalls, big ones and small ones, water everywhere. … and here's a happy final thought: You will not see or feel any bugs! No mosquitoes, no black flies, no ticks -- nothing like that! Here and there an insect comes whizzing by, but you can sit out on the veranda, with your drink, even with the light on -- and you won't be annoyed! Isn't that marvelous?” Naturally my anticipation was great.

I even began to worry that my excitement would result in eventual disappointment. But Carl, my teacher, said “never mind, you will enjoy.” And it all turned out to be true. Let us proceed then to the particulars.

Having left Boston at 6:30 AM, by early afternoon out of Miami, I was able to look down on many of the Caribbean islands. Even from thousands of feet above I saw the white sand beaches and quiet turquoise waters so familiar from calendar photos and resort brochures. It was easy to imagine soaking up sun and planters punch on a lounge chair with a good book, punctuated by the occasional swim. But after passing 10 or 12 of what looked, from the sky, like pancakes and drips on the skillet made from runny batter, I returned to my reading and napping.

Missing a close connection in Antigua led to an overnight stay there as the airport near the northeast corner of Dominica has no lights, one cannot arrive late. LIAT flights the next day were standby only, which meant another early start. But getting up at 4:00 AM is a lot easier the second day running. Thankfully there was room on the first flight out.

THE MELVILLE HALL RIVER TUMBLED OVER ROCKS AND DOWN RAVINES THROUGH A MAZE OF FOLDS IN THE LANDSCAPE BESIDE ME.

The approach to Dominica stands in sharp contrast to what I’d seen the day before. Powerful Atlantic waves splashed high against jagged cliffs. As we came over land and descended into the wind, the Melville Hall River tumbled over rocks and down ravines through a maze of folds in the landscape beside me. Deplaning, immigration and baggage took all of five minutes. And a host of friendly cab drivers were waiting at the door, ready to sort out passengers and destinations.

I wound up with Bobby. If you like roller coasters you’ll get a kick out of riding with him, I suspect it’s the same with most. The roads are neither wide nor straight, and may be dotted with folks near the villages, walking to their destination or waiting for a ride. Of course Bobby knows each and every last one of them. It was never quite clear to me if the frequent horn blasts were greetings or warnings as we swung down, up, over, left and right through the many switchbacks in the village OF Marigot, near the airport heading South on the Eastern Coast to Domcan’s Guest House near the village of Castle Bruce.
Dominica : Wild Adventures on the Nature Island

Along that route we passed through the Carib territory, an area set aside for those people native to the Island. Dominica is the only island with such a reservation and significant population of the beautiful and resourceful Carib Indians. There is a museum and cultural center, but the territory is not a tourist attraction. It is home.

DOMINICA, AS YOU MAY HAVE HEARD, IS UNSPOILED BY TOURISM.

Did I say “tourist attraction?” Dominica, as you may have heard, is unspoiled by tourism. How unspoiled is it? I could not even find a postcard! Actually, cruise ships do stop there, briefly, at the capital, Roseau. Every day it is a different boat and according to reports, passengers are universally taken to one spot: The Emerald Pool. The location seems to be a mild joke among the residents I came to know during my stay. They would smile broadly and nudge me. “Been to the Emerald Pool yet? Huh?” Despite the ribbing, I have no doubt it’s lovely. But we steered clear, I did not see it. There at least is one reason to return.

Arriving at Domcan’s I was greeted warmly, led to the verandah and offered a cup of hot coffee. I sat, sipped and gazed out over a valley and between two hills at the ocean beyond under broad rays of morning sunshine. Carl was still asleep. How thrilled he’d be to wake and find me here already. Of course by then, I’d drifted off myself. Soon enough we celebrated good fortune over the first of daily delicious breakfasts.

Grace’s preparations may not be the stuff of fine cuisine. That sort of luxury is available if you stay up the road at Beau Rive, an even more picturesque, luxurious retreat where all is in the finest taste. But Grace’s food was wholesome, hearty, plentiful, nutritious, yes. And for breakfast what is better than eggs, potatoes and maybe some bacon or ham prepared however you like, with lettuce and tomato on the side?

I’ll tell you what is better: the Combo Sandwich! Put that lettuce, tomato, ham and egg, plus a little cheese, onion, cucumber, French dressing and black pepper on a roll and you’ve got it. Skip lunch and drive yourself in a rented vehicle to a great hike with a swim, as we did.

In the nightly discussion of next day’s plan I heard about many places I did not see, Sari-Sari falls, Grand Fond, Scott’s Head at the Southern tip or a walk across the northern shore from Penville to Capucin. The highest mountain is Diablotin, in the north, and it's not the case that most island residents have been there; the trek to the top is not easily reached and is exceedingly difficult. We did not go there!

Also in the interior are Boeri, Freshwater and Boiling Lakes, reachable mainly from the village of Laudat. Boiling Lake is not just a moniker earned by some legend of islanders who may have seen steam rising from the surface some cool morning. Boiling Lake will cook your goose if you fall in, as one guide who lived to tell it once did. Story goes that his charge dropped a camera where it would have been dangerous to retrieve and so was advised to leave it.

The guide returned the next day to attempt it on his own however, and slipped. Only partially and briefly submerged he got out, injured and burned but whole, and lay for five hours before being discovered and helped. The walk is said to be 3½ hours over tough terrain each way, so allow a full day and don’t go it alone. I’ll have to go back to see this place, the others and more.

The walk we did take near Laudat was to a destination called Middleham Falls. A Wildlife and Forestry pass, available in the village for a nominal, worthwhile fee is required for these areas. The road to the trailhead is marked and there are rest rooms and a roofed seating area where you can wait out the downpour before you start, or snack afterward as the young group of European travelers we met there was doing.

In U.S. National Parks, signs often overestimate the time to complete a loop or reach a destination. Here, it was the opposite. 45 minutes in would have been too short anyway. With stops to ponder the tree ferns, umbrella leaves, bamboo stands and root systems spread across the surface of a broad incline or buttressing huge tropical hardwoods, it was well over an hour and well spent. Yes, Brazil has rain forests, but so do we! Cut logs form stairs to make steep or muddy passages manageable. I made the trip with a 12-year-old and a man who is either 78 or 29.

That is to say, the trail can be handled at most any skill or fitness level, and besides beauty and interest there is some challenge in it for all. This is no simple stroll; when you get there you’ll know you’ve done something.

Clamber down to the railed platform and look nearly straight up to see where the water comes over the top straight toward you and begins its drop of near 100 feet through the air. About 25 feet below is the pool, its surface continually swept with spray from the falling water and the strong drafts created there. But if you can face the wind in a chilly rainstorm for a moment, there is plenty of room to get in. Where the water’s not boiling, I’ve got to go in.

To Dominicans it may be cold, but to a Michigander now living in Rhode Island, it’s merely cool, refreshing and a completely invigorating setup. Try it, you’ll come out full of energy for the trip back.