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ACTIVE SINT MAARTEN, DYNAMIC SAINT-MARTIN
by Marie Lee

Dutch Sint Maarten borders the French overseas collective or territory of Saint-Martin, which occupies the northern half of the island. The capital of French Saint Martin is Marigot and the capital of Sint Maarten is Philipsburg..

St. Maarten is rapidly becoming the Eastern Caribbean's next St. Thomas -- its duty-free shopping rivals, if not exceeds, that of that U.S. Virgin Island -- and, increasingly, cruise lines are calling with their biggest, post-Panamax ships (on a recent spring trip we estimated there were six ships carrying about 18,000 passengers).

That's both good news and bad news for this unique port of call, which, along with neighboring St. Martin, is the world's smallest island inhabited by two countries. St. Maarten is, of course, governed by the Netherlands Antilles while St. Martin is part of the French West Indies. What's particularly fun is that barring huge traffic jams, you can easily swing back and forth from the Dutch to the French sides, and enjoy the best of both.

On either side of the mountainous island, there are lovely -- rivaling the best in the Caribbean -- beaches, including the clothing-optional part of Orient Beach. Its duty-free prices for electronics and liquor (these shops are primarily found in St. Maarten's Philipsburg) may well be the best in the Caribbean. And the restaurants, cafes and designer boutiques of St. Martin's Marigot definitely possess a distinctive je ne sais quoi.

For those who can only bear so much sun worshiping, St. Maarten/St. Martin boasts a huge array of activities to offer, for all ages and interests. Most of the island's hotels have an Activity Desk staffed by personnel who can help to arrange activities to fit your schedule and desires.

For those of you who enjoy action on the water, St. Maarten/St. Martin truly qualifies as paradise. Her crystal clear waters are host to every type of water sport imaginable. Sailing, surfing, body-boarding, wake-boarding, jet-skiing, para-sailing, windsurfing, snorkeling, diving, kayaking, and now, the latest fad, 'Kite-surfing' or 'Fly-surfing'. For those who are inexperienced, but have “always wanted to try it”, lessons are available for all activities.

For those who prefer to be airborne, why not try your first parachute jump over this beautiful Caribbean island? And closer to the ground there is horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking and numerous gyms and sporting clubs.
 
On the calmer side, there are many local and historical museums, art galleries and beauty spots to visit and excursions leave several times a day to many of St. Maarten/St. Martin's neighboring islands. Whatever you decide to do on your visit to this island paradise, you will not be disappointed – though you may be a little tired!

For over 20 years, every March, St. Martins' waters become the ultimate Caribbean playground for sailors and 'landlubbers' alike! Being a magnet for the nautical scene year round, it's the Annual Heineken Regatta that turns the eyes of the sailing world on this little island.

This grand sailing celebration brings sailors from Europe and North America to challenge their Caribbean brothers in a friendly, high level competition. More than 250 mariners assemble to compete in the St. Maarten trade winds making it the largest regatta in the Caribbean. The regatta of 2005 brought 256 challengers from 24 nations, in 17 classes from the smallest 17' cat to a 162' schooner and 120 charter boats. The races start on the Dutch side and finish on the French side amidst much 'pomp and partying'.

The highlight of the regatta is the Big Boat Class with its amazing beauties and high-tech racers, though it's not only the race that makes the event so notorious. Keeping to its motto 'Serious Fun' the regatta includes nightly feasts in Philipsburg, on the Marigot Waterfront and Simpson Bay. Supporters or crews, winners or losers, residents or visitors; after the race everybody joins a whirlwind of music, Heineken and happiness to enjoy the spirit of friendly competition that is the Heineken Regatta.

Beaches

St. Maarten is blessed with 37 beaches--one for each of the island's 37 square miles. Busy bays are venues for water sports, swimming, and snorkeling, while secluded coves offer private retreats. The dress code ranges from modest (on the Dutch side of the island) to nudist (on the French side). Half-day or full-day sailing excursions to undeveloped beaches nearby are also available.

Some of the more famous beaches include mile-long Mullet Bay Beach, perfect for swimming; Dawn Beach, known for its incredible sunrises; and Little Bay Beach, a favorite of snorkelers, with calm, clear waters that offer excellent visibility.

Maho Beach is one of the island's most dramatic swimming spots. Swimmers splashing in the water can experience the unusual thrill of airplanes passing right over their heads as they head for the nearby runway. The craggy rocks lining the white sand beach add another dramatic touch. There are also wet bikes available for rent.

One of St. Maarten's more private beaches is Simpson Bay Beach, a long half-moon of white sand set between a picturesque fishing village and the murmuring sea. There are no water sports, no resorts, just the sound of water gently lapping at your feet. You can stroll, swim, or simply relax, all the while seeing barely another soul.

Cupecoy Beach is another unspoiled landscape with pure white sand, sandstone cliffs, and shoreline caves as a setting. The surf can be strong, but the wind is blocked by the rocks. Lying near the border with St. Martin, its dress code is influenced by that of the French beaches: clothing is optional.

Diving

Divers have long recognized the Caribbean as one of the world's best diving venues. It’s warm, shallow waters create ideal conditions, and St. Maarten's diving is true to the good reputation of the region as a whole. Water temperatures average a comfortable 70 degrees F (21 C), while visibility ranges between 75 and 125 feet (22-37 m).

The islands reefs are rich and often located close to shore, accessible to snorkelers as well as divers.

The best snorkeling spots are off Little Bay Beach, Dawn Beach, and Maho Bay.

Certified divers can rent tanks and equipment from water sport shops throughout the island.

Beginners can take advantage of lessons from experienced professionals. Many of the island's resorts have scuba facilities on site. One of the most popular dive sites is the wreck of the British man-of-war HMS Proselyte, which sank in 1801. Today its haunting remains lie atop a reef a mile south of Great Bay. Another common destination is the freighter Teigland, sunk deliberately on Cable Reef in 1993. It has already begun to attract animal life and underwater.

Nightlife

Fueled by a healthy tourist industry, an international reputation, and a duty-free fervor that never seems to end, night on St. Maarten is a time when things are just beginning. Much of the nightlife is concentrated at the big resorts, which combine night clubs, restaurants, and late-night shopping. Many hotels organize beachside barbeques, with dancing to the music of a steel drum band (you don't usually have to be a hotel guest to join in).

The island's discos attract an international crowd, all dancing to the latest club hits. The best Caribbean music on the island can be found at the island's many live-music clubs, where one is as likely to find as many locals as visitors. Among the island hot spots are the News Music Cafe, Greenhouse, Indiana Beach, Amnesia, and Cheri's Cafe.

For many visitors, the island's nine casinos (all on the Dutch side) are a major attraction. The gaming is European style, subdued and sophisticated, and open to everyone from high-rollers to beginners. Staff members are always ready to take first-timers through the basics.

The largest casino on the island is Casino Royale, at the Maho Beach Hotel. Open from 1 pm to 4 am every day of the year, Casino Royale has table limits ranging from US$5 to $2,000 for blackjack and from $5 to $500 for craps. Just a few minutes away is the Atlantis Casino at Cupecoy Beach. Taking inspiration from the legendary underwater city, the casino is decorated in an ancient nautical theme. The Atlantis has a private gaming room for high-stakes baccarat, French roulette, chemin de fer, and seven-card stud poker.

Philipsburg's busy Front Street is home to two casinos: Rouge et Noir and the Coliseum Casino. The futuristic design of Rouge et Noir is more Las Vegas than Monte Carlo. The flashing lights of video keno and video poker keep the atmosphere lively. The Coliseum has three floors of entertainment, all designed in a style evocative of ancient Rome. Slot machines are on the main level, poker machines can be found on the upper level, and the lower level houses a private gaming room featuring blackjack, roulette, and Caribbean stud poker.

Sports fans will enjoy the Lightning Casino, which features boxing, baseball, soccer, hockey, football, basketball, and horse racing on big-screen televisions. Located just minutes from the airport, the casino offers free transportation from anywhere on the island and limousine service to rated players.

Other casinos offer gaming in exciting resort settings. The Pelican Casino, at the Pelican Resort in Simpson Bay, is a Vegas-style casino with blackjack, roulette, craps, and slot machines. Nightly dancing on the Pelican Reef terrace and island shows with Caribbean bands are also featured. Another hot spot is the newly-renovated Golden Casino at the Great Bay Beach Hotel. Payback on its slots goes as high as US$2,500.

Maho Beach Resort is featuring "International Cabaret Cubana" at the Comedy Club.  Shows are Wednesday thru Sunday at 10pm.  Price is $25.00 w/1 free drink.  For reservation/tickets call 52115 ext. 4830. There are two other casinos, The Diamond Casino and The Paradise Plaza Slots both located on Frontstreet in Philipsburg.

AXUM Jazz Cafe

St. Maarten has added an alternative form of entertainment to its club scene. AXUM Jazz Cafe, on Front Street, Philipsburg, offers a multi-faceted entertainment menu from live jazz music and reggae to dramatic presentations and poetry readings. AXUM provides a cozy atmosphere with its quasi-noveau primal decor and war shades of nectarine and rust-colored antique furnishings.

The cafe also serves as a backdrop for the Caribbean's finest contemporary artists to display their works of art. AXUM opens Tuesday through Sunday at 6:00pm and serves light platters, appetizers and a variety of beverages.

New Party and Dinner Cruise Boat

Sun Star Cruises, a new party and dinner cruise boat, has arrived on the St. Maarten entertainment scene. Sun Star Cruise, located along Airport Road in Simpson Bay, offers Sunset Dinner Cruises, Moonlight Party Cruises and Special Custom Charters. The four-hour sunset dinner cruises set sail at 6:00pm on Tuesdays and Fridays. Priced at $55.00 per person, the sunset cruise accommodates up to 125 guests and includes two glasses of wine or champagne, dinner buffet and entertainment.

The Moonlight party cruise accommodates up to 175 passengers and departs at 6:30pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Priced at $35.00 per person, the four-hour cruise includes two glasses of wine or rum punch, snacks, entertainment and a nightly dancing contest. Special custom charters are available on request for weddings, anniversaries and special events.

Carnival

Carnival comes to St. Maarten once a year, bursting upon the senses just after Easter. It begins with the Balloon Jump-Up, the first of the "Jump-Up" parades that will wind their way through the streets until April 30, the birthday of Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands.
The Balloon Jump-Up celebrates the opening of Carnival Village, an area two blocks from Front Street that houses more than 100 food booths. Among the dishes no visitor should miss are conch and dumplings, open-pit barbecued chicken, and Johnny cakes. You may also want to sample the "sea moss," a drink made of sea weed and brandy that is alleged to be an aphrodisiac.

The "Jump-Up" parades, comprised of floats, live bands, and brightly costumed dancers, are a top Carnival attraction, as is the Caribbean Queen Pageant. The largest of the processions is the Grand Carnival Parade, which features elaborately dressed Carnival troupes winding along a four-mile route. Between parades, crowds are entertained by steel drum bands and by comedians from throughout the Caribbean.

Competitions--and Calypso competitions in particular--are also an integral part of Carnival festivities. Long a traditional art form of the Caribbean, calypso tests the improvisational and narrative skills of a solo performer known as a "Calypsonian." The winner goes up against the previous year's Calypso King or Queen in a battle for the new title. There is also a separate junior calypso competition for children.

The day after a new calypso monarch is crowned is an early one, opening with a hearty 4 am welcome to the new day in the Jouvert (pronounced "Jou-vey") Morning Jump-Up Parade, which lasts until sunrise. The grand finale to Carnival is the Last Lap Jump-Up, lead by King Momo, the straw figure who reigns over Carnival. The burning of King Momo signals the end of Carnival--according to local legend, he takes the village sins with him, leaving the island pure. As an added bonus, Carnival usually coincides with a drop in hotel rates for the summer season, so the most exciting time is also the most economical.

Shopping

After many years of duty free shopping in the Caribbean my friends and I long ago voted St. Maarten the best priced duty free shopping in the Caribbean. And, St. Martin is the best place to buy French cosmetics and perfumes.  St. Maarten enjoys an unusual status as a commercial center: it is among the world's few duty-free ports. This means that no duty is paid on any item coming in or going out. Luxury items cost up to 50 percent less than in other countries, and it is a small wonder that shoppers and cruise ships from around the world head here to buy jewelry, electronics, perfume, crystal, and other expensive goods.

Most of Dutch St. Maarten's shopping is concentrated along Front Street in Philipsburg. Boutiques stretch along the entire length of the street, and stylish arcades lead off in either direction. A truly international center, Front Street offers top-of-the-line products from around the world. Prices are quoted in US dollars, saving shoppers the confusion of sorting out exchange rates.

Jewelry is a perennial favorite for St. Maarten shoppers. The Front Street jewelers offer everything from loose diamonds and emeralds to original creations in gold and silver. Many jewelers also sell exclusive Swiss watches. Other great buys are international fashions, from Gucci to Ralph Lauren, fine leather goods, and top-of-the-line French cosmetics. Front Street also offers the best of 20th-century electronics, including televisions, CD players, cameras, and fax machines.

Native arts and crafts are not lost among all the Euro-ware. The more popular offerings are West Indian hammocks, wood carvings, handmade jewelry, and bottles of local guava berry liquor. Private galleries showcase the work of artists from all over the Netherlands Antilles. Shops on Front Street are open from 8 or 9 am until noon, and then again from 2 until 6 p.m. Some stores remain open during lunch as a convenience to visiting cruise ship passengers. Most shops are open every day except Christmas and Good Friday.

Many stores on St. Maarten remain open until the wee hours, alert to the sudden desire for acquisition triggered by casino winnings. Among the late-night shopping areas, Maho Bay has gained a particularly high reputation. Chic boutiques selling high fashion clothing, perfumes, and cosmetics now stay open almost as late as the surrounding nightclubs. A note about duties: Every country has its own customs requirements on goods brought back from duty-free vacations. Front Street merchants can give details on most countries' requirements.

Exploring

The deceptively small Dutch St. Maarten presents some interesting contrasts for the explorer. Wide beaches along the coast, full of sunbathers and water surfers, seem a far cry from the quiet country roads and small towns of the hillsides. In the evening the hills of the interior become even more peaceful, while the glittering casinos and pulsing clubs of the coast just begin to come alive.

Heading north by car on Pondfill Road from Philipsburg, visitors soon arrive at the Madam Estate area, site of the island's zoo. Governed by the St. Maarten Zoological and Botanical Garden, it features animals, birds and plants native to the Caribbean Basin and South America, including St. Kitts monkeys.

Northeast of the zoo are Dawn Beach and Oyster Pond, the first best known as a favored snorkeling and windsurfing beach. According to legend, Oyster Pond is the point where a Frenchman and Dutchman stood back to back and starting walking around the island in either direction, determining the present-day boundaries between Dutch and French St. Maarten. Oyster Bay remains divided between two governments, but the border is extremely informal--swimmers can cross back and forth between French and Dutch territory without even noticing!

For a view and a taste of history, visitors can climb Mount Concordia, which rises along the border in the center of the island. In 1648, the treaty that divided the island was signed here, and Mount Concordia continues to serve as a proud symbol of St. Maarten's 350-year history of peaceful co-existance between the two cultures.

Cole Bay Hill, just west of Philipsburg, has an observation platform at the top. A stop here is highly recommended for views of surrounding islands, including Anguilla, Saba, St. Eustatius, St. Kitts, and Nevis. Down along the coast, a popular walking trail leads from Cole Bay to Cay Bay. The walk takes about an hour.

Further west is Simpson Bay Lagoon, a large, enclosed stretch of water perfect for waterskiing. The road leading along the south side of the lagoon goes past the island's largest resort, Maho Bay. Cupecoy Beach is the last beach in Dutch territory on the western side of the island. Visitors who want the full St. Maarten experience can follow the road through the French side

Favorite Sites on French  St. Martin

Fort St. Louis

Overlooking Marigot Bay on the leeward side of the island sits the imposing figure of Fort St. Louis, the largest historical monument in St. Martin. Named for the famous crusading king of France, it was originally built in 1767 to protect the settlement at Marigot from foreign invaders. The plans were sent over directly from Versailles at the order of the ill-fated French king, Louis XVI. Following the events of 1789, the fort was temporarily occupied by the Dutch to prevent the further spread of revolutionary democracy which had reached the island from Guadeloupe. Now, it no longer serves its former purpose, but the steep climb up to the summit provides a panoramic view of the island and the sea surrounding it, and the effort is well rewarded. The area is open 24/7 and there are signs explaining historical events.

The Marigot Market

On Wednesdays and Saturdays mornings, an open-air market is set up along the wharves on the Blvd. de France, offering a colorful array of homegrown produce, tropical fruits and spices, and freshly caught fish. It is a perfect opportunity for mingling, people watching, and just sampling the food. Across from the market are the "Lolo's", featuring arts, crafts and local restaurants.

St.-Martin Museum, "On The Trail Of The Arawaks"

At the southern end of Marigot, next to the Marina Port la Royale, is a museum dedicated to preserving St. Martin's history and culture. A new building houses a variety of pre-Colombian treasures unearthed by the Hope Estate Archaeological Society. Among these are a reproduction of the 1,500 year old burial mound that was only discovered in 1994, artifacts dating back as far as 1800 BC, and some beautifully adorned ceramics from around 550 BC. A colonial exhibit details the history of the plantation and slavery period, and early 20th Century photographs provide glimpses into the island's modern development. It is open daily free of charge. Open from 9 am to 4 pm entrance fee is € 5.00 (Tel: 0590 29-48-36).

Marigot

The capital city of Marigot is perhaps the most French in spirit of all the cities in the Caribbean. Colonial houses stand beside smart cafés and bistros, pastry shops and luxury boutiques, and in many ways it looks just like any of the French market towns you might expect to find on the Continent. A shopping center newly built at the foot of Fort St. Louis, with luxurious boutiques such as Chanel, Lacoste. At the southern end of town down by the harbor is the Marina Port la Royale, elegant stores with the latest in European designer fashions and fine jewelry, all free of tax. The entire city is only four streets wide, so it is very easy to get around.

Grand Case

The sweeping curve of the beach at Grand Case near the northern tip of the island shelters a little fishing village that is famous not only for its fine foods but also for its distinctive style of architecture. Elaborate carvings and fretwork, in what is called a gingerbread style, adorn the fronts of the small wooden houses painted in pastel colors, and the effect is truly charming. Some of the island's best restaurants also happen to be located in this area, including local dishes at barbecue stands called Lolo's and souvenir shops. Do not miss the Tuesday night festivities during high season on the Blfd de Grand-Case.

Colombier

Halfway between Marigot and Grand Case lies the picturesque setting of Colombier, a sumptuous green valley lush with tropical vegetation and sinking gently between rolling green hills. It is one of the most beautiful and most peaceful spots in St. Martin, perfect for private walks and quiet relaxation. There is also a newly opened watermelon plantation, where the fruit is used to prepare liqueur, deserts and other treats.

Paradise Peak

Rising from the center of St. Martin at a height of 1,400 feet stands Pic Paradis, the highest point on the whole island. Climbing to the top, where there are two observation decks, provides a spectacular view of the scenery and the tropical forest below. You can also try the FLYZONE.

Mount Concordia

Atop this mountain, located right on the border between St. Martin and St. Maarten, the original treaty dividing the island in two was signed by the French and Dutch. There are also the ruins of the old sugar plantation "La Sucrerie."

Terres Basses

The French word for Lowlands, are located at the westernmost end of the island beyond the Simpson Bay Lagoon. They are home to some of the most exclusive villas on the island and feature two of St. Martin's prettiest beaches at Plum Bay, Baie Rouge and Baie Longue, the location of the 5-star La Samanna Hotel.

Butter Fly Farm

At the Butter Fly Farm you can walk amongst the rare and exotic butterflies, from around the world flying freely in the tropical paradise, with music, flowers and fresh waterfalls.

Orleans, The French Quarter

The quiet little fishing village of Orleans, also called the French Quarter, is located on the eastern side of the island just north of the border with St. Maarten. It was the original settlement of the French in St. Martin and some of the original seventeenth-century structures are still preserved here. This part of the island has not been developed extensively; so much of the old atmosphere has remained unspoiled. There are only a few residences here today, together with a few small shops.
   
Sint Maarten and Saint-Martin represent what is known as a great bang for your dollar – there is so much to do, see and enjoy in an small easy to traverse island, that one can’t help but to have the time of their life. And, the reader may have noticed that I did not cover the incredible plethora of restaurants, and hotels in these two nations.

Sint Maarten and Saint-Martin offers a diverse range of high quality restaurants, small inns and large resorts – so many in fact that it would take another article to cover the subject. The best way to discover those is to go visit …it is a special experience. 

Author : Marie Lee is a freelance journalist whose passion is the environment, eco-tourism and sustainable living. Born in Europe, she travels quite often throughout the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America and is currently touring Mexico in search of a new home base.

Email : Marie Lee