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TRINIDAD: KICKOFF TO CARNIVAL
By Reg Block

Carnival, starting in December and going well into February, is definitely one of the most popular tourist times in Trinidad. This year, I was in Trinidad from January 10-23rd, just before Carnival really kicks off. There were few tourists, but they were starting to come and by the 19th of January, the roads were becoming more congested and it was more difficult to book flights to the neighboring island of Tobago. Still, the days leading up to Carnival, though less busy, are still a kickoff, and offer a taste of Carnival that may appeal to some travelers who prefer a slower pace. The buildup to Carnival begins during this time as there are fetes (festivals) nearly every evening, and during the day smaller concerts are held in the parks.

In many ways it is the opportune time to enjoy Trinidad as accommodation is priced lower before the big tourist rush, and Port of Spain is less frantic and much easier to get around as there is only one principal east-west transportation corridor through Port of Spain and because of that its usually congested, even at the best of times.

In this article, I'll tell you about my trip in general, explain some of the currency issues, suggest some places you might like to visit, discuss transportation and accommodation and give you some pre-carnival tips.

Getting There

SHE HAD WARNED ME IN ADVANCED THAT THERE ARE TWO PRICES FOR ALMOST EVERYTHING - ONE FOR LOCALS AND ANOTHER FOR TOURISTS.

January 10th at 2:30PM I arrived at Piarco airport, 27 kilometers from Port of Spain, the capital of Trinidad & Tobago. The flight from Vancouver, British Columbia, where I live, took 18 hours with plane changes and waits between flights. Needless to say, I was tired, but glad to have arrived safely. Passing through customs was a trouble-free - perhaps having a Canadian passport makes a difference, as most countries still respect Canadian foreign policy.

My friend, Magnon Howard, had a arranged transportation and was waiting for me in the lobby when I arrived. If you've never been to Trinidad, it is very helpful to know someone who is familiar with the way transportation works. She had warned me in advanced that there are two prices for almost everything - one for locals and another for tourists. Still, hiring a taxi to take you to Port of Spain or anywhere else is affordable, especially if you are converting US or Canadian currency to $TT, as the conversion is around one to six.

Most businesses, including taxis, accept both US and TT dollars, and will convert on the spot, with no hassle. However, I recommend getting some $TT when you get there, as nearly everything is priced according to local currency. This is simple to do at any of the major banks in Port of Spain and the outlying regions - bank machines will give you $TT, converted at current rates. That being said, it is not necessary to carry a large amount of cash, as debit cards from around the world work just fine at all the major banks, like Scotia Bank, which is very well-represented throughout the country. Also, credit cards are accepted by most businesses, except small local sidewalk vendors and low-budget shops that take only cash.

My destination was the Chaguaramas Hotel and Convention Centre located in the yachting district, about 15 kilometers west of Port of Spain. I paid the driver $250TT ($42 US), which seemed like very little, considering the distance from Piarco Airport (about 45 kilometers). Still, my friend said that was too much. Compared to taxi rates in Vancouver, I thought it was a bargain.

Since it was considered pre-carnival tourist season, hotel rates were very affordable and I had the hotel pretty much to myself. My room was clean and nicely appointed with air-conditioning, fridge and remote controlled television. The room looked out over the beach and the bay, affording an excellent view of the morning sunrise. I spent four nights at the Convention Centre: the bill was around $300 Canadian (about the same in US dollars), or 1,800 $TT. Payment can be made with any major credit card or cash -US and $TT are accepted.

I should say that if you are planning to stay at the Convention Centre, it is a little out of the way, however, it's quiet and there are bus services, maxis and private drivers passing by regularly. Also, listed in the phone book there are a number of nearby car rentals that will deliver a vehicle to you. My advice is, if you have never driven in Port of Spain, take taxis until you figure out how traffic flows. There are very few rules -driving is on the left, (like in England) but drivers use both sides of the road, the shoulder and they do whatever it takes to get through the traffic, as the east-west connector passing through Port of Spain is most often congested. As for speed limits: I saw a few signs but drivers pay no attention to them.

Also, near the Convention Centre there's only one place to eat -Kentucky Fried Chicken (KFC), located just across the main road next to the beach. Otherwise, there are a number of restaurants and food stores located in the various yachting facilities east and west of the Convention Centre. You can catch a yellow-striped maxi van, which will pick up and drop anywhere along the road. Rates are posted in the vans: $6 TT will get you all the way to Port of Spain and some drivers will go off-route for a few extra dollars. The vans are usually crowded, not very comfortable and drivers play loud Caribbean and rap influenced music pretty much all the time: if that bothers, you maxis are not for you.

Party-time Local Style - Gearing up for Carnival

Despite the fact that I arrived prior to "official" carnival time, there was lots of fetes to choose from. My friend, Magnon suggested we attend a non-touristy fete -she warned me that I would probably be the only Caucasian there and sometimes there's trouble. The other option was to attend an all-inclusive "high-end" fete, which caters more to tourists than the general local populace. I opted for the authentic Trinidadian licensing fete, as the call it. So, depending upon your appetite for adventure both are guaranteed to be a unique experience. Prices for licensing fetes are around $100TT per person, with all-inclusives costing $700 to 1,200TT per person.

Friday evening, we took a taxi to Port of Spain and lined up for the licensing fete. Getting into the event was slow, as everyone had to be frisked and electronically scanned for weapons. This meant taking off your shoes and passing through a security area. The security guard asked me if I was sure I wanted to go in -needless to say, I was nervous, but I resolved to experience party-time local style.

Once inside the compound, I observed a sea of tightly packed bodies, some moving to the music, while others just stood still and watched the performers.

SUDDENLY, THE CROWD PARTED LIKE MOSES AND THE RED SEA; A COLUMN OF DARTH VADER-GARBED POLICEMEN EMERGED, WEAVING ITS WAY THROUGH THE CROWD....

The bar was at the far end of the compound, away from the entrance, so we squeezed our way through the throng, in search of a cold, local Carib beer. After paying the server $28TT ($4.60US) for two beers, my guide, Magnon, warned me about pick-pockets and thieves and then we began pressing and squeezing our way closer to the stage. Several times I felt hands grabbing at the digital camera attached to my belt, hands trying to get into my pockets and on three occasions young men working in pairs tried to separate me from Magnon. Somehow I managed to evade them and eventually found myself back near the entrance and fairly close to the stage where Beenie Man was putting on a terrific show.

Suddenly, the crowd parted like Moses and the Red Sea: a column of DarthVader-garbed policemen emerged, weaving its way through the crowd dragging a young black man toward the gates. Magnon said that was a fairly common sight: when they catch thieves and violent individuals they unceremoniously haul them out of the crowd, often administering a beating along the way.

We left around 1:00PM, as getting taxis can be difficult later in the evening and the streets of Port of Spain are not deemed safe, even by locals I spoke with. Anyway, I enjoyed the experience and arrived safely back in my hotel at Chaguaramas, where I slept like a log until morning, when I was awoken by a knock on the door. Magnon was standing there ready to take me to Brian Lara Promendade and Charlotte Street in downtown Port of Spain.

Downtown Port of Spain

I quickly dressed and we headed for the main road where we flagged down a taxi. The drive to Port of Spain was bumpy and exciting, as the driver wove through pot-holes in the asphalt, using both sides of the road and the shoulders -weaving and turning at alarming speeds. Somehow we made it without mishap and the driver dropped us on Brian Lara Boulevard, named after Trinidad's famous cricketer.

It was an exhilarating place: traffic and bodies moving in every direction along the boulevard and side streets. The boulevard is flanked by one way streets, while the central boulevard itself is designated for pedestrian traffic only. At the northern end of the boulevard stands the Catholic Cathedral, an impressive turreted, stain-glass windowed church. Later, during my stay, I returned to take pictures and view the inside.

But our destination was Charlotte Street, a narrow half-mile road lined with shops, sidewalk vendors and shoppers transacting business. My guide, Magnon, had previously told me that Charlotte Street is where the locals shop and often the same goods can be purchased there for a fraction of the price compared to fancier shops elsewhere in POS. We bought some sweet little green orange-like fruits -much like Japanese oranges, live crabs and dasheen bush, to make Calaloo, a popular dish in Trinidad. I also picked up some jewelery and a couple of colorful t-shirts for my daughter.

We often passed by fenced-in areas where dozens of steel drums and drummers were practicing for the fast approaching Carnival festivities. And in the Savannah, a central park in Port of Spain, the stage was set and performers were already beginning to entertain. We stopped, joining hundreds of others, to watch a lively calypso band brighten up the atmosphere with Caribbean rhythms. Meanwhile, areas surrounding the Savannah were dotted with brightly colored concession booths where food and merchandise would soon be sold to tourists and revelers alike.

St. Benedict Monastery

I highly recommend taking a tour of Mt. St. Benedict Monastery. To get there from Port of Spain, you can either hire a private taxi, take the yellow-striped maxi east and then catch the monastery shuttle up the mountain. The narrow road up Mt. St Benedict winds its way up, and once at the top, the view is spectacular, with a bank of mountains to one side and farmlands stretching out to the horizon, on the other. It's quiet and peaceful and there's a gentle cooling breeze that blows most of the time. Also, there are; lovely gardens, a gift shop, a cafeteria and a beautiful chapel. It's a nice break from the bustling energy of Port of Spain.

Maracas Beach etal

...MOUNTAIN DRIVE FROM PORT OF SPAIN OFFERS STUNNING SCENERY, AND AT THE TOP...AN AWESOME VIEW OF THE BEACH.

Situated on the north side of the island, Maracas Beach is one of the loveliest beaches on the island of Trinidad and therefore often crowded. It is one of the few beaches, on Trinidad's north side, that is protected by a deep bay, providing some of the island's best body surfing.

The hour-long mountain drive from Port of Spain offers stunning scenery, and near the top there's a popular mountain top look-out that affords an awesome view of the beach. The look-out features a local sweets and preservatives shop, where you can purchase popular snacks like salt prunes, red mango, gummy bears and other goodies.

However, if you get hungry at the beach, there are many Shark and Bake huts, where you can order deep-fried shark coated in a bread-like batter: it's a local favorite and something you want to try. Be patient because you may have to line up and wait, but you'll be glad you did.

It's certainly worth a day trip to Maracas Beach, however, if you feel the urge to spend a few days there is The Maracas Beach Hotel featuring 32 ocean-view rooms, restaurant/bistro, air-conditioning, room service, ensuite bathrooms, television, hot and cold water and private balconies.

Rates are based on double occupancy, starting at $87US based, including continental breakfast and $110US during Carnival -minimum three nights. The hotel will also arrange taxi service to and from the airport and site-seeing tours.

There are many beaches in the north, south, east and west of Trinidad and they all afford different beach experiences. In the north east, for example, from November to April, there are some great surf breaks, however, between May and September, the sea calms down, making it great for swimming. The north coast, where Maracas Beach is located, features quite a few beaches ideal for swimming and sunbathing, as does the north west penninsula, where you'll find Chaguaramas Beach - and further along, at the end of the road near the army base, the Cove - a quaint little quiet resort community, featuring an ocean-side restaurant, bar, pool, change rooms and accomodation.

In the far south west of Trinidad, there are a number of secluded beaches, some with a view of the coast of Venezuela. While in the south, you may want to visit Pitch Lake, where pitch, the ingredient of asphalt has been mined and exported since 1859.

Getting Married in Trinidad

Maracas Beach is a popular place to get married, and the beach-front hotel is more than willing to accommodate your needs. But first, you'll need to get your paperwork in order. Marriage licenses, issued by the District Revenue Office, cost $300TT and are valid for six months from date of issue. You'll need ID, proof of non-resident status (ie. passports, immigration cards and return airline tickets) and if you are divorced or widowed, notarized, relevant legal documents must be produced. And for those under 18 years of age, legally documented parental consent is required. Marriages can be performed by any certified marriage officer, who then must submit marriage certificates to the Registrar General's Office, Jerningham Street, Scarborough for registration. Afterward, $37.50TT must be paid, to the Treasury Office of the Tobago House of Assembly, for two marriage certificates. Although marriages performed in Trinidad are recognized by most countries, it's a good idea to research marriage requirements in your own country, as some will require additional procedures before and after the marriage.

Safety and Fun

As in any foreign country, always take safety precautions. Carnival is known for its pick-pockets -so, don't wear expensive jewelery or flaunt your wealth, and be careful where you go and who you're with, especially late at night.

Author: Reg Block lives in Vancouver, Canada. He is a freelance journalist with Canada's largest publisher, Canwest Global, where he writes for the Lowermainland Division and the Wellness section of the Surrey Now Newspaper. Prior, Reg was Special Projects Manager with Common Ground Magazine, Canada's oldest natural health and environment magazine. Reg plans to settle in the Caribbean when Rachel has finished school and accomplished her figure skating goals.

Email : Reg Block

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